Method and system for attaching a pocket to a portion of a garment

ABSTRACT

A system and method of fastening a pocket to a portion of a garment is described. Garment working stations are arranged in a preselected manner about a platform with predetermined accurate alignment of their individual garment working operations. Each garment portion is automatically deposited on the platform and aligned with an orientation selected to bring its desired working areas with precision opposite the garment working stations. A garment portion indexer is employed which clamps the panel to preserve its automatically obtained alignment effectively throughout the working operations. The indexer accurately indexes the aligned panel step by step to each of the stations continuously retaining its grip until that is no longer needed. Pockets are deposited on the platform and automatically aligned with a selected indexed panel position. The pocket is attached to the panel at a precisely determined panel location after being transferred thereto with an automatic actuated transfer device. Pocket manipulation is uniquely performed at a garment station to precisely align pocket and panel parts as well as prepare completion of pocket attachment. Aesthetic completion of panel to pocket assembly is obtained with accurate bar tack operations, assuring a repetitively neat product. An automatic panel dart forming station is shown for the attachment of a rear garment panel for a pair of trousers to a back pocket. High speed pocket to garment attachments are obtained.

United States Patent Rovin et al.

[ METHOD AND SYSTEM FOR A'I'IACHING A POCKET TO A PORTION OF A GARMENT [72] inventors: Herman Rovln, Norwalk, Conn.; Jam W. Cobb, Tarrytown, N.Y.; Theodore Opuszenski, Darian, Conn.; Richard H. Willard, Norwaik, Conn.; Raymond Rigat, Jr., Monroe, Conn.; Joseph Pellicano, Greenwich, Conn.

Ivanhoe Research Corporation c/o Robert A. Hack, New York, NY.

[22] Filed: Sept.ll, 1969 [21] Appl.No.: 857,012

[73] Assignee:

[ 1 June 20, 1972 9/1970 Westofi' ..ll2/l2l.l5 9/1970 Rovin et a! ..1 12/2 X ABSTRACT A system and method of fastening a pocket to a portion of a garment is described. Garment working stations are arranged in a preselected manner about a platform with predetermined accurate alignment of their individual garment working operations. Each garment portion is automatically deposited on the platform and aligned with an orientation selected to bring its desired working areas with precision opposite the garment working stations. A garment portion indexer is employed which clamps the panel to preserve its automatically obtained alignment effectively throughout the working operations. The indexer accurately indexes the aligned panel step by step to each of the stations continuously retaining its grip until that is no longer needed. Pockets are deposited on the platform and automatically aligned with a selected indexed panel position. The pocket is attached to the panel at a precisely detennined panel location after being transferred thereto with an automatic actuated transfer device. Pocket manipulation is uniquely performed at a garment station to precisely align pocket and panel parts as well as prepare completion of pocket attachment. Aesthetic completion of panel to pocket assembly is obtained with accurate bar tack operations, assuring a repetitively neat product. An automatic panel dart forming station is shown for the attachment of a rear garment panel for a pair of trousers to a back pocket. High speed pocket to garment attachments are obtained.

16 Claims, 43 Drawing Figures PATENTEDJUNZO 1972 FIG.

sum 01 0F 25 HERMAN ROI/IN JAMES W. COBB THEODORE OPUSZENSK/ R/CHARD H. WILLARD RA YMO/VO R/GA 7,'JR. JOSEPH PELL/CANO INVENTORS BY W15 ATTORNEYS PATENTEBJmo ma 3.670.675

SHEET 02 0F 25 HERMANROV/N JAMES W 6088 THEODORE OPUS'ZE/VSK/ RICHARD H. WILLARD RAWOND R/GAL'JR. JOSEPH PELL/CA/VO INVENTORS BY W 5 ATTORNEYS PATENTEBJWO 2372 FIG. lB

SHEET 03 0F 25 HERMANROV/IV JAMES W. COBB HEDDDREDPUSZENSK/ RICHARD H. WILLARD RAYMOND R/GAZJR.

JOSEPH PELL/CA/VD INVENTORS BY R W 7 PMM-LQLQ- 8 W ATTORNEYS PATfiNTEnJunzolmz 3.670675 sum on HF 25 HERMAN ROI/IN JAMES W COBB THEODORE OPUSZE/VSK/ RICHARD H. WILLARD RAYMOND R/OA7: JR. JOSEPH PELL/OANO INVENTORS PATENTEDJHNZO I972 3 670.675

sum as or 25 62 HERMAN R0 Vl/V JAMES w. COBB 7/1500 ORE OPUSZENSK/ RICHARD H. WILLARD 66 RA YMOND R/GAZ JR.

N FIG- IE JOSEPH FELL/CA 0 INVENTORS PWLLQW Z ATTORNEYS P'A'TE'N'TEDJum m2 3, 670,675

sum 06 or 2s FIG. 2

HERMAN ROI/IN JAMES W 6038 THEODORE OPUSZENSK/ RICHARD H. WILLARD RAYMOND R/GA7I JR. JOSEPH PELL/CANO INVENTORS m B @QMMJL a ATTORNEYS PATENTEBJMO I972 3.570.675

sum 0? or 25 m HERMAN ROVl/V.

m JAMES m 0088 I. I I lll' h 176 we THEODORE OPUSZENSK/ g e3 RICHARD H. WILLARD 9O RAYMOND R/aAzJ/a JOSEPH FELL/CA N0 INVENTORS 63 1 M 8W1 P if ATTORNEYS FATENTEDJUMO m2 3. 670 67 5 sum 08 0F 25 IO 2' LL JAMES W COBB THEODORE OPUSZE/VSK/ RICHARD h. WILLARD RAYMOND R/GA 7,' JR.

JOSE RH PE LL/CA/VO mvsu'roas BYW'B panmlfl? ATTORN EYS PATENTEDJUHZO 1972 sum 09 or 25 HERMAN ROV/N JAMES W COBB THEODORE OPUSZENSK/ R/CHARDH. WILLARD RAYMOND R/GAZ' JR. JOSEPH PELL/CANO INVENTORS BY m , Ei g v ATTORNEYS w mma wa 1% P'A'TE'N'TEDJmo m2 SHEET 12 0F 25 HERMAN ROV/N JAMES W COBB THEODORE OPUSZE/VSK/ RICHARD H. WILLARD RAYMOND R/GAT: JR.

JOSEPH PELL/CA/VO lNVENTORS B W, VMMWQLL 9 ATTORNEYS PATENTEMunzo I972 33. 670.675

saw 13 or 25 HERMAN ROVl/V JAMES n! 0085 THEODORE OPUSZE IVS K RICHARD H W/LLARD RAYMOND R/GAZ JR. JOSEPH PELL/CANO INVENTORS 15 Pan/main 8, ATTORNEYS PATENTEDJUH 20 1912 3, 6 7 0.6 7 5 sum in or 25 HERMAN ROI/IN JAMES W 6088 THEODOREOPUSZE/VSK/ RICHARD H WILLARD RAYMOND R/GAL'JR. JOSEPH PELL/CA/VO INVENTORS ATTORNEYS PATENTEDJUHZO I972 3,670,675

SHEET 15 or 25 HERMAN ROV/N JAMES W COBB THEODORE OPUSZENSK/ RICHARD H. WILLARD RAYMOND R/GAT, JR.

JOSEPH. PE LUCA/V0 INVENTORS POMWB wmmlmam.

ATTORNEYS PATENTEDJUHO 1912 3 670 67 5 sum 15 0F 25 FIG-2O HERMAN ROVl/V JAMES M. COBB THEODORE OPUSZENSK/ R/CHARDH. WILLARD JOSEPH-PELL/CANO {NVENTORS BY W,B 'PMMJM. W

ATTORNEYS PATENTEnJuuzo 1922 3,670,675

sum 170f 25 :11 o 8 f m 2 m Ll.

A HERMA meow/v JAMES w 0088 THEODORE opuszavsx/ RICHARD H WILLARD RAYMOND R/GAZ' JR.

JOSEPH PE L L ICA N0 INVENTORS m 13 1mm aw ATTORNEYS PATENTEDJUMQ I972 SHEET 18 [1F 25 FIG.2|

FIG-23 B 0 0 MBMRJN M A A R E MM NWZMHL Asw a RAVE O S Dm w MR INVENTORS PM/M114 c ATTORNEYS PKTENTEDmzo m2 3. 670.675

' sum 19 or 25 FIG. 24

A n HERMAN R0 Wm M JAMES W COBB THEODORE OPUSZE/VSK/ RICHARD H WILLARD RA man/0 R/aAr, JR.

, JOSEPH PELL/CANO INVENTORS ATTORNEYS 

1. A method of automatically and accurately attaching a pocket to a portion of a garment comprising the steps of depositing a preformed garment portion having an inside and an outside surface on a platform for transportation thereon to garment working stations with the outside garment portion surface facing up away from the platform, aligning the deposited garment portion along predetermined reference working lines to accurately locate the garment portion relative to successively spaced garment working stations, clamping the aligned garment portion to the platform to preserve alignment during transportation and garment working operations, indexing the clamped garment portion to a garment cutting station, cutting a pocket opening slit in the garment at a location bearing a predetermined position and orientation relative to the reference working lines, said slit being bordered by upper and lower garment portion tabs, folding the cut garment portion to protrudingly expose the lower garment portion tab, indexing the folded garment portion to a pocket attachment station, depositing a preformed and prefolded pocket having a pocket receptacle portion commencing at a lower lip and a predefined upper attachment line located along a pocket flap on the platform with the pocket lower lip protrudingly exposed and the pocket flap folded over the pocket receptacle portion, aligning the deposited pocket with its exposed lower lip in predetermined registration with the indexed protrudingly exposed lower garment portion tab, guiding the aligned pocket to the indexed folded garment portion until the pocket lower lip is in desired attaching relationship with the protrudingly exposed garment portion lower tab, fastening the pocket lower lip to the garment portion lower tab, indexing the partially assembled pocket and garment portion to a first manipulation station, removing the pocket receptacle portion from under the pocket flap to protrudingly expose the upper attachment line, indexing the partial assembly with the exposed upper attachment line to a second pocket attachment station, fastening the garment portion upper tab to the pocket along the exposed upper attachment line, unfolding the garment portion to expose the outside surface of its pocket opening, indexing the unfolded garment portion to a bar tack forming station, stitching the end locations of the slit in the unfolded garment portion to form bar tacks located at sides of the pocket opening in the assembly and complete an attractive quality pocket, indexing the completed garment portion assembly to a removal station, removing the completed garment portion from the platform.
 2. A method of automatically and accurately fastening a pocket to a rear panel for a garment comprising the steps of feeding a preformed rear panel onto an annular horizontal platform alOng a radially inward direction, said platform being shaped to provide a circular transportation path for rear panels to be indexed to garment working stations angularly arranged at predetermined angular and radial locations, said rear panel being fed in a horizontal position with its outside surface facing up and a top section thereof oriented toward the outer edge of the platform, aligning an angularly located edge and a top edge of the rear panel along radial and circumferential reference working lines respectively to accurately register the panel with the garment working stations, clamping the aligned panel to the platform to preserve its registration during transportation and garment working operations, rotationally indexing the clamped panel to a dart forming station, folding the top section of the panel along a generally longitudinal radial fold line located to form a preselected dart fold, stitching the dart fold along a stitch line bearing a preselected angle relative to the dart fold, unfolding the panel top section to a horizontal position, rotationally indexing the dart formed panel to a cutting station, cutting a pocket opening slit and side located slits in the panel at a preselected radial location on the platform to form upper and lower panel tabs, folding a top part of the panel radially inwardly over the panel along a fold line selected to protrudingly expose the panel lower tab in a radially outward horizontal direction, rotationally indexing the panel to a pocket attachment station, depositing a preformed and prefolded back pocket horizontally on a pocket alignment station located on the platform, said back pocket having a pocket receptacle portion commencing at a frontally located lower lip and a backwardly located upper lip with the upper lip located on a pocket suspension flap along an attachment line, said pocket being deposited with its pocket receptacle portion folded under the upper lip and flap to protrudingly expose the lower lip, aligning the pocket with its lower lip registered along a line effectively tangential to the indexed position of the protrudingly exposed lower panel tab and with the pocket receptacle portion extending radially outwardly from the lower lip, moving the pocket generally along the tangent line to position the lower pocket lip over the lower panel tab at the pocket attachment station with portions of the lip extending beyond the sides of the lower tab, sewing the lower lip to the lower panel tab, rotationally indexing the panel and partially sewn back pocket to a first manipulation station and simultaneously lifting the back pocket flap from the pocket portion, removing the pocket receptacle portion from under the pocket suspension flap and the upper lip, rotationally indexing the manipulated panel and back pocket to a second pocket attachment station, moving the panel inwardly folded top part radially outwardly a distance selected to position the panel upper tab in sewing relationship over the upper lip along the attachment line, sewing the panel upper tab to the upper lip on the suspension flap, rotationally indexing the panel and back pocket to a second manipulation station, returning the inwardly folded top part of the panel to an unfolded horizontal position with the outside surface of the panel facing upwardly, rotationally indexing the unfolded panel to a bar tack forming station with the end located sides of the pocket opening slip operatively located beneath bar stitching machines, stitching the ends of the pocket opening slit to form attractive bar tacks, rotationally indexing the bar tacked panel and back pocket assembly to a removal station, unclamping the panel and back pocket and radially removing the panel and back pocket from the platform.
 3. A method of automatically and accurately fastening a pocket to a portion of a garment comprising the steps of depositing a portion of a garment horizontally on an annular platform arranged about an axis for garment portion transportation to garment working stations Located at predetermined angular and radial locations about the platform, said garment portion being horizontally deposited with its outside surface facing up and a top section thereof oriented towards the radially outward edge of the platform, aligning an angularly located edge and a top edge of the deposited garment portion along radial and circumferential reference working lines respectively to accurately register the garment portion with the garment working stations, clamping the aligned garment portion to the platform to preserve its registration during transportation and garment working operations, rotationally indexing the clamped garment portion to angularly successive index locations operatively associated with garment working stations, cutting the clamped garment portion at a predetermined radial location from the axis to form a pocket opening slit bordered by upper and lower tabs, depositing a preformed pocket on the platform, said pocket having a pocket receptacle portion commencing at a front located exposed lower lip and a back located upper lip for respective fastening to the lower and upper garment portion tabs along the pocket opening slit, with the pocket receptacle portion folded under the upper lip to extend radially outwardly towards the platform, aligning the pocket with its lower lip registered along a line effectively tangential to the indexed position of the lower garment portion tab at a pocket attachment station, moving the pocket along the tangential line to position the lower lip over the lower tab in fastening relationship and fastening the lower pocket lip to the garment portion lower tab, indexing the clamped garment portion and the pocket attached thereto to a pocket manipulation station, removing the pocket receptacle portion from under the back located upper lip to isolate the upper lip for attachment to the garment portion upper tab, fastening the upper lip of the pocket to the upper tab of the garment portion, and indexing the assembly of garment portion and pocket to a removal station and removing the assembly from the platform.
 4. A system for automatically and accurately assembling a back pocket to a back panel for a garment comprising platform means defining a plurality of successively spaced garment working stations, means for automatically successively indexing a back panel to the garment working stations with predetermined constant registration relative thereto, means for automatically feeding a back panel to said indexing means for indexing to the garment working stations, registration means located at a first garment working station for receiving a fed in back panel and adjusting the position thereof relative to the indexing means to establish said predetermined constant registration prior to further garment working operations, dart forming means located at a second garment working station and operative on said indexed panel to automatically form a dart therein at a station location bearing a predetermined registration with the indexing means, cutting means located at a third garment working station for slitting the dart provided back panel at a location bearing a selected registration with the indexing means, said cutting means forming a pocket opening with upper and lower tabs shaped for fastening to a back pocket, means for automatically feeding a preformed back pocket to a fourth garment working station, said back pocket having upper and lower lips to be respectively sewn onto upper and lower panel tabs, means located in the vicinity of said fourth garment working station for automatically aligning a lip of a fed in back pocket with predetermined registration relative to a corresponding tab of a back panel indexed to said fourth station by the indexing means, means for automatically positioning the aligned back pocket lip in sewing relationship with the corresponding tab of the back panel at said fourth station, means for sewing said aligned back pocket lip to the corresponding back panel tab, means located at a fifth indeX station for manipulating the back panel and sewed on back pocket and isolate the other back pocket lip for sewing to the other tab of the back panel, means located at a sixth index garment working station for sewing the other back pocket lip to the other back panel tab along a predetermined attachment line having a preselected registration relationship with the indexing means, means located at a seventh index garment working station for simultaneously forming a back tack at ends of the slit in the back panel and means located at a garment working station for removing bar tacked garment panels from the indexing means.
 5. In a system for automatically and accurately attaching a back pocket to a rear panel for a pair of trousers with garment working stations selectively located about a platform comprising means for forming a dart in the rear panel, means for automatically aligning a rear panel on the platform with preselected registration relative to the dart forming means, said dart forming means including a lower fold plate having a dart fold edge having a predetermined orientation relative to the aligned rear panel, said plate being elevated above the platform to receive an underlying rear panel, said lower fold plate being vertically movable to come to rest upon a panel with the dart fold edge located along the rear panel at a desired dart forming location thereon, an upper fold plate having a slot, said upper fold being located effectively flush with the platform to receive a rear panel overlying said upper plate, said upper fold plate being slidably mounted to the platform for positioning over the lower fold plate when the latter plate has come to rest upon a panel, said upper fold plate slot being oriented and sized for placement over a desired dart forming line adjacent the dart fold, and means for forming said dart through said upper fold plate slot.
 6. The system as claimed in claim 5 wherein said dart forming means comprises a sewing machine mounted for movement along the upper fold plate slot and means for pivoting said lower fold plate out of the operating path of said sewing machine.
 7. In a system for automatically and accurately attaching a pocket having an upper and lower lip to a portion of a garment with garment working stations selectively located about a platform the improvement comprising means for cutting said garment portion to form an accurately located pocket opening therein bordered by an upper tab and a lower tab, means for automatically aligning garment portions on the platform with preselected orientation relative to said cutting means, means for automatically aligning pockets having upper and lower lips relative to the garment portion, means for protrudingly exposing said lower tab, means for attaching the lower lip of a pocket to said protrudingly exposed lower tab for accurate attachment of the pocket lip to the garment portion lower tab by said attaching means.
 8. The system as claimed in claim 7 wherein said platform is annular about an axis, and indexing means for successively rotationally moving garment portions about said axis on the platform to said aligning, lower tab exposing and attaching means.
 9. The system as claimed in claim 8 wherein said indexing means includes clamping devices each formed of a registration clamp and a garment working clamp, said garment working clamp being provided with a fold plate located over the garment portion along the pocket opening slit, said plate having a fold edge located to protrudingly expose the garment portion lower tab upon a folding of said garment portion over the plate and wherein said exposing means further includes means for folding said garment portion over the plate.
 10. In a system for automatically and accurately attaching a pocket having an upper and lower lip to a portion of a garment with garment working stations selectively located about a platform the improvement comprising means for providing a panel having a pocket opening slit bordered by upper and lower tabs in accurate preselected alignment on the platform with the upper tab folded back over the lower tab to protrudingly expose the lower tab, means for attaching the lower lip of the pocket to the exposed lower tab of the garment portion with the pocket upper lip folding located over the receptacle portion of the pocket to form a preassembly of the pocket and garment portion, means receiving the preassembly for manipulating the pocket to isolate the pocket upper lip and locate the lower and upper pocket lips in desired final relationship with one another, means for bringing the garment portion upper tab and the pocket upper lip in attaching relationship with one another, means for attaching the garment portion upper tab to the pocket upper lip, and means for accurately aligning both said pocket and said garment portion with predetermined orientation relative to each other and said means to provide an accurate assembly of the pocket upper and lower lips about the garment portion pocket opening slit.
 11. The system as claimed in claim 10 wherein said pocket upper lip is located on a pocket suspension flap with the flap folded back over the receptacle portion of the pocket, wherein said pocket manipulating means further includes, a pocket flap support plate spaced horizontally above the platform to permit free movement of the receptacle portion therebelow, means for lifting the flap onto the flap support plate with the receptacle portion located below the support plate, means for folding the receptacle pocket portion below the platform under the garment portion and isolate the pocket upper lip.
 12. The system as claimed in claim 11 and further including a pocket lower lip support plate operatively located below the platform, means for maintaining said pocket lower lip support plate inoperative at preselected garment working stations and operatively apply said lip support plate at said manipulating means.
 13. The system as claimed in claim 12 wherein said manipulating means further includes a wiper operatively located to aid alignment of the lower pocket lip along the upper pocket lip when said pocket receptacle portion is located below the platform.
 14. The system as claimed in claim 13 wherein the said manipulating means further includes a tremble air stream generator located along the flap support plate and operatively directed downwardly at said pocket receptacle portion to aid in dropping thereof below the platform.
 15. In a system for automatically and accurately fastening a pocket to a garment portion with garment working stations arranged about a platform the improvement comprising an annular platform shaped to provide a garment portion support about an axis, means for aligning a garment portion with preselected orientation on the platform at a location having a predetermined radial and angular position, means located at a preselected angular and radial location with respect to the aligning means for forming a pocket opening slit in the garment portion, means for attaching a pocket around the pocket opening slit in the garment portion, and means for moving said garment portion on said platform about said axis to said slit forming and pocket attaching means with preserved predetermined orientation to form an accurate garment to pocket assembly.
 16. The system as claimed in claim 11 and further including bar tack forming means operatively located at a predetermined angular location about said platform, said moving means rotationally positioning ends of the garment portion pocket opening slit with operative precision opposite said bar tack forming means. 